Proya eyes global beauty leadership through R&D push
China’s beauty industry has long operated under the influence of international brands, but that dynamic is shifting. Proya Cosmetics, the country’s largest publicly traded beauty company, is now challenging the status quo by aiming for global leadership.
Its product lineup includes skincare, makeup, body care, and haircare under brands such as Proya, Timage, Off&Relax, and Flower Knows. However, leadership in China represents only the first phase of its ambitions. The company has set a goal to become one of the top 10 global beauty players within the next decade, targeting annual revenue of RMB50 billion (AUD10.7 billion) by 2035.
At the heart of Proya’s global strategy lies a commitment to research and development. Dr. Huang Hu, the company’s Chief Scientific Officer and a former P&G Global Chief Scientist with 27 years of experience, leads this initiative. “To have a winning product in the market, the most important thing is building very strong R&D capabilities — from fundamental research to applied research, from active ingredient development to formulation, to process, to manufacturing. R&D is like the broad supplier to the whole product, so we’re putting more and more effort into it,” Huang said.
Proya’s investment in research is already yielding results. The company operates three specialized R&D centers—one in Hangzhou serving as the global hub, another in Shanghai focused on hair and scalp care, and a third in Paris, established as a global technology hub. The Paris facility leverages France’s reputation for cosmetic innovation. By the end of 2025, Proya held 303 patents, including 143 nationally licensed invention patents, and had contributed to the development of 21 national standards, seven light industry standards, and 40 group standards in the beauty industry.
Proya’s scientific prowess was prominently displayed at the 36th IFSCC Congress in Perth, where the company submitted 20 research works—all of which were accepted. Four were podium presentations, while 16 took the form of posters. Topics covered included mitochondrial skin aging, pigmentation, AI-assisted screening of botanical actives, and sun-protection film technologies.
China’s beauty market shifts power balance
Proya’s ascent reflects broader changes within China’s beauty sector. At the start of the century, international brands dominated the market, while domestic players held a smaller share. Founder and Chairman Hou Juncheng attributes this transformation to factors including consumer demand and technological advancements.
The Paris subsidiary, for example, functions as more than just a research center; it serves as a hub for collaboration with global biotech firms, ensuring Proya’s science remains both cutting-edge and globally relevant. This approach will be put to the test in November, when Proya’s Advanced Firming and Original Repair collections launch in 400 Ulta Beauty stores across the U.S. and on Ulta’s e-commerce platform. The partnership represents the brand’s official U.S. retail debut and a critical step in its international expansion.
For Proya, the U.S. launch is not merely about sales figures but about establishing scientific credibility in the world’s largest beauty market. Hou emphasized that the company is “expanding outward while also bringing global strengths into China,” creating a reciprocal exchange of technology and expertise. This move follows Proya’s earlier entry into Malaysia, positioning the brand as a key player in the broader Asian beauty trend.
Science over speed: Proya’s global credibility strategy
The company’s research on mitochondrial DNA replication and pigmentation, both highlighted at the conference, demonstrates its focus on addressing core skin biology. Unlike brands that emphasize quick innovation or marketing trends, Proya prioritizes long-term scientific validation, a strategy Huang describes as essential for gaining trust in markets like the U.S. and Europe.
The Paris R&D center plays a key role in connecting China’s scientific advancements with global standards. As a technology hub, it collaborates with European biotech firms to ensure Proya’s formulations meet international regulatory and performance expectations.
Proya’s patent portfolio, now totaling 303 patents including 143 invention patents, reinforces its commitment to intellectual property as a competitive advantage. Beyond patents, the company has contributed to 21 national standards and 40 group standards, establishing itself as a leader in cosmetic science. This technical rigor is particularly important in the U.S., where regulatory scrutiny and consumer skepticism toward unproven claims remain significant. By leveraging its Paris hub, Proya aims to address these challenges proactively, ensuring its products meet the rigorous expectations of Western consumers.
The Ulta Beauty partnership represents Proya’s most significant retail entry into the U.S. market, a move Hou describes as essential for building scientific credibility where trust in beauty products is closely tied to clinical evidence. By debuting in Ulta’s stores and digital platform, Proya gains access to a consumer base that values both innovation and proven efficacy.
Ulta launch tests U.S. trust in C-beauty
The Ulta partnership also marks a shift in Proya’s distribution strategy. While the company has previously relied on e-commerce and select international retailers, the Ulta collaboration provides high-visibility shelf space in physical stores, a key touchpoint for American consumers who still value in-person shopping experiences. The decision to launch with two core collections rather than a broad product line reflects Proya’s strategy of prioritizing quality over quantity, ensuring its initial U.S. offerings are backed by clinical data and consumer testing.
Proya’s Scientific Recognition and Global Expansion Strategy
The 2026 IFSCC Podium Fundamental Research Award was granted to Proya for a study on mitochondrial DNA replication in skin aging, led by Song Yaling. The research examined how mitochondrial homeostasis and the cGAS-STING pathway influence skin fibroblast senescence. A second paper, led by Feng Zhe, was also recognized among the top 10 entries for exploring melanosome internalization’s role in fibroblast aging, inflammation, and pigmentation.
