Vogue September Issue Evolves Under Editor Malle
The Vogue September issue is the most significant issue of the year. It marks a major shift for the storied fashion magazine, as this year’s edition serves as the first publication under the new direction of Chloe Malle. Malle took over from Anna Wintour last September. On the podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discussed Malle’s debut issue and the changes within the fashion media sector.
From trend tracker to collector’s item
The hosts identified a primary change in how the magazine operates. Chief among these is that print publications are no longer the main source of style information for most fashion enthusiasts. The September edition of the past functioned as a bellwether for trends, telling the public what was in style and what was coming down the pipeline. However, the speed of online publishing has outpaced print, meaning the magazine must now prioritize timelessness over timeliness.
The shift creates a sometimes contradictory product. The issue features ads for brands currently hot in the market, but the editorial content often feels detached from the fashion business itself.
Danny Parisi and Jill Manoff shared insights on the debut issue. “It’s interesting that Chloe is coming from a digital background,” Manoff noted. “I was a Vogue subscriber for years, and I used to read things that were buzzy and new. The issue contains stories about improving your mood with Botox or one about the dangers of clenching your jaw. It left me wondering what I was actually reading.”
“A lot of it doesn’t feel very timely,” Parisi added. “Part of that is that people are more likely to buy print magazines today as a collector’s item, as a coffee table book. That’s why you see so many of those commemorative issues of random magazines in the grocery store aisle. They’re not meant to give you timely information, which has all moved online.”
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The decision to treat the magazine as a collector’s item rather than a daily news source creates a unique tension for advertisers. Brands that pay for space in the publication might expect their products to be featured in the editorial content alongside the ads. However, the current strategy suggests that the editorial team is willing to risk ad revenue to maintain a distinct voice that focuses on lifestyle and culture rather than commerce.
The cover story and styling shifts
The cover story highlights Kaia Gerber and Homer Gere, the children of famous parents. That theme connects to the many designers who have taken over legacy fashion houses in the last year. The connection is personal for Malle, who is the daughter of actress Candice Bergen and filmmaker Louis Malle.
The publication also highlights a change in how clothes are styled for the pages.
There is a continued trend toward single-brand looks. The pair noted a move away from stylist-driven looks, which they argued used to be the norm.
“We’ve definitely moved away from the stylist-driven looks, which haven’t been the norm for a while,” Manoff said. “I like when you see ‘stylist-owned ball cap’ or ‘vintage jeans’ in the credits. It’s unfortunate that that’s gone, because that is very inspiring to me. When you see a head-to-toe look that’s all one brand, you’re not getting ideas on how to style it. Nobody dresses that way.”
